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Rajasthan has a rich tradition of cuisines – for this land of princes had
some of the finest cooks in the palaces. The common-folk also took epicurean
delight in the culinary art. Aptly has it been said that the royal kitchens
of Rajasthan raised the preparation of food to the level of a sublime art.
It is not surprising therefore that the 'Khansamas' (the royal cooks) who
worked in the State palaces kept their most prized recipes to themselves.
Some recipes were passed on to their descendants and the rest were passed on
as skills to the chefs of semi States and the branded hotel companies.
One special feature of the Rajasthani cooking is that it has its roots in
the lifestyle of the medieval Rajasthan when the chieftains were mainly at
war. The focus was on edible items that could last for several days and
could also be eaten without heating. Food was also prepared out of necessity
rather than choice. It depended on the items available in particular
regions. Furthermore, the scarcity of water as well as fresh green
vegetables have had some impact on their art of cooking.In the desert belt
of Jaisalmer, Barmer and Bikaner, cooks use a minimum of water and prefer,
instead, to use more milk, buttermilk and clarified butter. A distinct
feature of the Maheshwari(a trading company) cooking is the use of mango
powder, a suitable substitute for tomatoes, scarce in the desert, and
asafetida, to enhance the taste in the absence of garlic and onions.
Generally, Rajasthani curries are brilliant
red but not as spicy as they look. Most Rajasthani cuisine uses pure Ghee
(clarified butter) as a means of cooking. A favorite sweet dish called lapsi
is prepared with broken wheat (Dalia) sautéed in ghee and sweetened. Perhaps
the best known Rajasthani food is the combination of dal, and churma BATI
(dal is lentils; BATI ball is cooked wheat and cereal powder churma
sweetened), but for the adventurous traveler, willing to experiment, there
is much variety available. In addition, each region is distinguished by its
popular sweet - Mawa Kachori from Jodhpur, Alwar ka Mawa, Malpuas of
Pushkar, Rasogullas of Bikaner, Jaipur Ghevar just to name a few. Contrary
to popular belief, people of Rajasthan are not all vegetarians. One of the
unique creation is the Junglee maas. Junglee maas was a great favourite
among the Maharajas and due to paucity of exotic ingredients in the camp
kitchen, the game brought in from the hunt was simply cooked in pure ghee,
salt and plenty of red chillies. However, now this dish has been adapted to
the less controversial ingredients like kidlamb, pork or poultry. The
personal recipes of the royal Khansama still rotate around their generations
and are the highlights of regal gatherings. Each princely State of Rajasthan
had its own style of the recipes, and is still continued in the Rajput
households. It was mainly the men folk of the family who prepared the
non-vegetarian food. Some of the Maharajas apart from being great hunters
relished the passion of cooking the ‘Shikars’ themselves for their chosen
guests and the trend continues among the successive generations.
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